Kundan, Polki, Meenakari, AD: Imitation Jewellery Terms in Plain English

Silver-finish pavé bracelet with amethyst stones on burgundy velvet

Jewellery listings use a vocabulary that assumes you grew up with it. Most of us did not. Here is every term you are likely to meet, explained in plain English, and what to look for when the piece is imitation rather than real gold.

Stone-setting styles

Kundan — the classic Rajasthani technique of setting a flat-backed glass or stone into a bed of pure gold foil, which gives the white, softly glowing look you see on bridal sets. In imitation jewellery the foil is gold-tone and the stones are glass; a good piece keeps the stones flat and flush with the setting, with no gaps at the edges. Our Kiara pendant set is kundan work.

Polki — uncut, unpolished diamonds set in foil. Polki reads glassier and more irregular than kundan, with visible facets. Imitation polki uses faceted glass over foil; look for depth and slight irregularity between stones — perfectly identical stones look like AD, not polki.

Jadau — not a stone but the technique of embedding stones into softened gold. People often use jadau, kundan and polki interchangeably; jadau is the method, the others are what gets embedded.

Meenakari — enamel work: coloured glass powder fused to metal, usually on the back or edges of a piece. Reversible meenakari pieces are a Jaipur speciality. On imitation pieces, check that the enamel is glossy and level; bubbles or matte patches chip early.

AD / American Diamond / CZ — cubic zirconia, a lab-made stone cut to look like a diamond. This is what gives most modern pavé bracelets and cocktail rings their sparkle. Quality shows in the setting more than the stone: prongs or grains should hold each stone so none rattle.

Pavé — small stones set so close together that the metal seems "paved" with them. Both our Aabha and Noor bracelets are pavé-set.

Cabochon — a stone polished smooth and domed rather than cut into facets. The aqua centre of the Aabha bracelet is a cabochon.

Finishes

Antique gold — a deliberately muted, slightly darkened gold plating that mimics old, worn gold. It photographs beautifully and hides fingerprints. Most temple and kundan pieces come in this finish.

Bright gold / high gold — a polished, yellow gold plating. Cleaner and more modern; shows smudges more easily.

Rhodium / silver finish — a white-metal plating that gives the look of platinum or white gold. It is what makes AD pieces look like diamond jewellery. Rhodium is harder than gold plating, so silver-finish pieces tend to keep their shine longer.

Oxidised — silver-tone metal deliberately darkened in the recesses so the raised pattern stands out. The boho, Afghani and tribal styles are almost always oxidised.

Two-tone — gold and silver finishes on the same piece.

Materials and claims

Imitation / artificial / fashion jewellery — all mean the same thing: a base metal (usually a brass or copper alloy) with a plated finish and glass, resin or CZ stones. None of it is gold or silver, and none of it should be priced as if it were.

Nickel-free — nickel is the metal most likely to cause skin reactions, especially at earring posts. Nickel-free means the alloy and plating avoid it. This matters more than any other claim if you have sensitive skin.

Anti-tarnish — a clear protective coating over the plating that slows the reaction with air, sweat and humidity. It extends life; it does not make a piece waterproof. See our care guide for what still helps.

Brass alloy — the usual base metal for good imitation jewellery. Heavier and more durable than the zinc alloys used in very cheap pieces, and it takes plating better.

Forms and parts

Haar — a necklace, especially a long one. Raani haar is the long, layered, queen's necklace; a choker sits at the base of the neck.

Jhumka — the bell-shaped earring, usually hanging from a stud. Jhumki is the smaller version. Chandbali is the crescent-moon shaped earring.

Kada — a broad, rigid bangle. An openable kada has a hinge and clasp, so it is free-size. A chudi or bangle is thinner and closed. Our size guide explains the sizing.

Dori — the adjustable thread back on a necklace, usually with tassels. It is what lets one necklace fit many necklines.

Ghungroo — the tiny bells on anklets (payal) and some jhumkas.

Temple jewellery — the South Indian style with goddess motifs, coins and beadwork, traditionally in antique gold finish.

What "good" looks like in imitation jewellery

  • Stones sit flat and none move when you run a fingernail across them.
  • Plating is even, with no bare patches at the edges or inside the loops.
  • Hooks, clasps and hinges move smoothly and click shut.
  • The back is finished, not raw — a plain plate or meenakari, not sharp edges.
  • The weight is proportional: a large piece that feels feather-light is usually thin zinc alloy.

Every piece on Solah Singar is checked against this list before it is photographed. If you want to know exactly what a piece is made of, the Details & materials section on each product page spells it out.